Interview by Vassilios Nicolaos Vitsilogiannis

(IG: @vassiliosvitsilogiannis)

Omar Mansoor is a distinguished London-based fashion designer, celebrated for his exquisite couture occasion wear that seamlessly blends Eastern and Western aesthetics. Born into a textile family in Faisalabad, Pakistan, he cultivated a deep appreciation for fabrics and design from an early age. After studying at the London College of Fashion, Mansoor made history as the first Pakistani designer to showcase at London Fashion Week in 2008. His innovative approach has garnered attention from British actresses, European aristocracy and international royalty, establishing him as a prominent figure in the fashion industry known for reintroducing fusion clothing into contemporary fashion.

What inspired you to pursue a career in fashion design, especially fusion fashion that blends Eastern and Western styles?

I come from a textile family hailing from Faisalabad, the textile town of Pakistan, where every other professional is either directly or indirectly related to the textile industry. Since I was a child, I knew my interest was in arts as compared to conventional subjects, so I knew I’d be pursuing a career in the creative side of textiles.

Moving to London, I was suggested by Kenneth Cole who came as a guest lecturer at the London College of Fashion about marrying my Western education with Eastern aesthetics. Hence, the fusion became part of my signature style.

How has your Pakistani heritage influenced your design aesthetic and the materials you use, such as handwoven silk and the “charpai” weave?

The ‘Charpai’ weave was something I used to observe as a child, so it was always at the back of my mind’s creative box; other motifs and ornaments which were always taking space in my subconscious, were popping out of my mind while I was sketching, influencing my designs.

As the first Pakistani designer to showcase at London Fashion Week, what challenges did you face in breaking into the industry and establishing your brand?

The challenges were not just to launch my label or create a personal brand image but to retain a soft-diplomacy while running my business. The challenges were the same as any other label launching at that time, such as understanding the pulse of the market and what is the right balance of creativity and commercialism.

Your designs have been worn by many celebrities, European aristocracy and Middle Eastern royalty. How does dressing these high-profile clients differ from designing for the general public?

To be fair, these dignitaries are like any other customer, although some are not following punctuality while arriving for their appointments.

Sustainability is a growing concern in the fashion industry. Can you tell us about the steps you’ve taken to incorporate eco-friendly practices and materials into your collections?

When we decided to get onto a sustainable model, it was a bit of a challenge to source fully sustainable raw materials and then educate our clients about the concept.

We look for the source of cotton if it’s ethically sourced without any child labour involved. The blended materials have recycled or dead stock material involved.

A fair wage is paid to all workforce involved.

What advice would you give to aspiring fashion designers, especially those from minority backgrounds, who are looking to make their mark in the industry?

Do understand the gap in the market and create your signature style. Always remember that your bank statement is what determines your business, not the statement from the press or influencers.

You’ve been credited with re-introducing fusion fashion into modern couture. How do you see this style evolving in the future and what new directions might it take?

As my previous answer suggests, the importance of the financial side of the business, the market has evolved and multi-functionality is the key.

The couture market may not be much get influenced but for ready-to-wear the customers are looking for styles that can be worn at multiple events.

As a mentor to students at the University of the Arts London, what do you believe are the most important skills and qualities for young designers to develop?

Commercial intelligence, marketing trends and forecasts are utterly important for any graduate who wants to start a career in fashion. Your perseverance will help you not just to develop your signature style but to mark it in the minds of the clients.

Your designs have been featured in prestigious publications like Vogue UK and the Financial Times. How important are media coverage and recognition in the fashion world, and how do you approach building relationships with the press?

That’s a bit of a tricky question. Brand awareness is key to accessing new markets and clients. Now, it’s up to the business, if they would like to adopt a ‘push strategy’ or ‘pull strategy’, shall be adopted. Be it editorials, reviews or advertising.

The relationship with the press takes time to build, but using good PR agencies can be very helpful at times.

Looking ahead, what are your goals and aspirations for your brand, both in terms of creative direction and business growth?

For the creative side, I would like to make a more affordable line for the masses and grow wisely; we would like to have collaborations with entities that are already catering to a wider clientele.

Images by Gokhon Goksoy